This wide and deep canal is surprisingly
picturesque and has many interesting and varied points of interest. Wide and
deep with no locks but a plethora of manned swing bridges. Expect to see some
large boats and maybe the odd ship but by and large this waterway is the domain
of pleasure craft. Don't use mooring pins here, they'll be pulled out by the
swell of rapid moving and large craft. If there are no rings, chain or rope
loops make for secure mooring on the metal edging.
Gloucester docks are a fascinating place to spend
a day or two. There is mooring around a lot of the basin with most narrowboats
heading for the barge arm. If you really can’t get a space, and the opposite
bank is full as well, you will need to moor on the pontoon mooring through the
lift bridge. This manned bridge closes during peak traffic times. The sani
station is also on the pontoon moorings. The Waterways museum is a must and we
also recommend the museum of packaging and the five story antique market for
which there is no entry fee. In terms of decent ale, the best pub is the Black
Swan, Southgate, which has six excellent real ales all from independent
breweries. It is five minutes walk from the basin. The Whitesmiths is
just outside the basin and serves Arkells 3B plus a seasonal ale. The food at
the Tall Ship, also just outside the basin is absolutely magnificent. The
seafood dishes are recommended. The only ale on offer is Wadworth 6X. If you
head toward town along the narrow passageway, by the lock you will find an
excellent laundrette on 104 Westgate Street. There are two good bread and cake
shops nearby.
As you head south through the manned swing
bridges (traffic light controlled), it is not long before the urban waterway
becomes more rural. Watch your timing as the bridge keepers close for lunch
1-1.30. They also wait for boats to “bunch” if there are a few of you. Three
of the bridges just out of the city are high enough for most boats to pass under. There
is not a lot at Saul junction but a short stop is worth it to see the
Stroudwater canal. The only diesel on the canal is on sale just above Fretherne
Bridge just before the flourmill.
Frampton is a lovely village with two
excellent pubs a small shop and a huge village green. The Bell is a smart
inn serving good food (Sunday lunches recommended but booking advised),
Greene King IPA and a local guest ale. The Three Horseshoes is more down
to earth and extremely welcoming. At least one of the locals with tell you what
the canal was like when commercial traffic was more prevalent than is the case
today. Six real ales are on sale with two from independent breweries. There are
two pleasant walks to Frampton. One is to follow the path (not the road) that
runs on the non-towpath site by Fretherene bridge. The other is from Splatt
bridge alongside the church. The latter leads you to the Three Horseshoes.
The section of waterway here offers the best
views of the Severn estuary and it is very picturesque. Shepherd’s Patch offers
excellent mooring (non towpath side), a small chandlery (with gas) cum shop.
Slimbridge Wildfowl trust is well worth visiting. This fascinating place easily
eats up an afternoon. The Tudor Arms serves good food and ale – Greene
King IPA, Wadworth 6X, Timothy Taylors Landlord plus two guest ales (Brakspear
Bitter and Uley Old Spot on our visit). Pricey ale but recommended. Purton is a
strange, almost wild place. The one pub, the Berkeley Arms is closed lunchtimes
so we didn’t get to try it. This simple pub serves Wadworth 6X as far as I can
work out but no food. If you walk past the pub, you will eventually come to the
estuary and be able to see the fascinating concrete and wooden boats, ditched
here to protect what is effectively the coastline. Be careful where you step
though, there are some oily ditches.
As you head for Sharpness itself, you will see
that boats are mooring on the towpath side from the demolished railway bridge up
to the start of the old arm which is itself private. Ahead of you lies the
unattractive but fascinating dock. The whole area is totally unique. Clear water
allowing you to see sea shells in the canal. The unobtrusive noise of machinery.
The tide running twice a day filling the muddy estuary. Seabirds. The old
sea lock. A crystal clear pound, filled with fish and sunken boats. Wonderful
views down the Severn of the bridges. Boats coming up from Bristol. There is a small chandlery with gas. There is no pub close by but the smart Dockers Club
five minutes walk away, welcomes visitors. No real ale but some excellent
photographs of Sharpness. Good value lunches are served apparently. If you turn
right at the bottom of the road, you come to a useful post office with small
shop that sells newspapers. Here you can get a good view of the docks and the
entrance to the sea lock. The floating sani station and water point is under the
high swing bridge on the right hand side.
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