The Trent and Mersey Canal

Tomato soup; fans in tunnels; fierce, paired locks; beer; salt; flashes

2001

Passage through Preston Brook tunnel is controlled by time - on the hour + ten min northbound, on the half hour + ten min southbound. There is a shallow stop lock and the area is heavily wooded and attractive. The northern parts of this canal are its most appealing with luscious open fields and interesting glimpses of the Weaver navigation and associated bridges and locks. Saltersford tunnel has a bend in it, you cannot see through. As it is only one way working like the other tunnels here, sound your horn and listen as soon as you enter it. At Barnton, there is a great laundrette "Grooms" on Church Street Tel: 01606 782970. Anderton lift was being restored when we were here but it was fascinating to see the work in progress. There is an excellent visitors centre near the car park. 

 

The Salt Barge at Marston (plenty of moorings), has a good atmosphere, serves a good pint of Burtonwood Bitter and a guest beer along with a national beer. The food is recommended. Around Northwich you quickly change from sections of high industrial activity from the salt works to semi-urban to picturesque countryside. The Old Broken Cross at Broken Cross only serves Greenalls Bitter. We are much more impressed by the ale, food and ambience at the Salt Barge.

The Flashes or lagoons created as a result of the old salt mines combine with the wonderful Cheshire countryside to create a delightful scene north of Middlewich.At Middlewich, you can enjoy a good pint of Directors, Theakston XB or guest ale over-looking the coming and going of boats at the Big Lock pub by the side of the Big Lock. There are a good selection of useful shops here with close to town mooring a few yards down from the big lock. There is a modern Somerfield as well. Middlewich Narrowboats boatyard have a nice little gift shop, water point and sani-station.There is a water point and an excellent chandlers at the junction. 


From here on, please note that records date from 1996. The Commercial at Wheelock is a true gem. It is full of lots of 50's and 60's memorabilia. It is a proper pub with proper, comfortable little rooms and a wonderful non-smoking lounge complete with wicker chairs. What is more, the pub is absolutely spotless, there isn't a bit of dust anywhere. Visit this pub before it is closed or ruined. The Thwaites Bitter is magnificent. The so-called Heartbreak Hill isn't so much strenuous as stretched out. These locks are all in pairs but invariably only one is operational. It is a bit of a game guessing which! The scenery is pretty throughout. The Broughton Arms at Rode Heath is a typical "country kitchen" style pub, but serves a fine pint of Marstons Pedigree. 
The Blue Bell close to the junction with the Macclesfield canal is an excellent award winning pub. The beer range is superlative and includes a good range of Belgian beers. There are normally six real ales on, invartiably from interesting breweries. We have moored below bridge 132. Not the nicest of spots but we had no trouble. There is a pub above, The Harecastle Hotel which is pretty ordinary but the food and Burtonwood ale is good. 

The water is has becoming more and more orange since leaving Rode Heath and is now like tomato soup. Passage though the tunnel is controlled by BW staff and we enter at 8am. This is a dark and long tunnel made more spooky by the noise of the extractor fans and the sealed exit until you reach the portal forty minutes later. Plenty of interesting industrial heritage in Stoke, we particularly liked being waved at by pottery workers from the neighbouring factories. Rows and rows of toilet basins make for interesting scenery. The Bass at the China Gardens is good if you want to pose with your boat outside! 

A short walk from the canal is the Plough at Etruria. It looks nothing from the outside but inside it a friendly and comfortable inn with a great range of steaks and sauces. In topc condition are Robinsons Mild, Bitter, Stockport Bitter and Hartleys XB. Whilst the Star (Banks's, Camerons, Pedigree) at Stone is a great traditional pub it is usually heaving. There is an excellent chandlers here. There is a useful shop ten minutes up the road at Hem Heath where you can get the local delicacy Oatcakes and the excellent quality Wrights pies. 

There are two good pubs in Weston but by far the better is the Woolpack. A short walk into the village brings you to a convenient general store and just round the corner on the green, the Woolpack itself. This is a pretty inn with a great atmosphere that sells Marstons ales. The food is high quality and excellent value. At Great Heywood (See Staffs and Worcs for more details) there is a lovely little canal shop where we bought a Buckby can for Bluebell. At Fradley there is the Swan (Ansells) and a very pretty junction. Alrewas is great place to moor. 

We choose the Old Boat which serves good Ushers Best Bitter, Founders and a seasonal ale. There are remnants of its previous incarnation as a Mad O'Rourke little pub. The GBG listed George & Dragon is on the High Street. A splendid butcher selling good homemade sausages and large pork pies, a useful Co-op and a paper shop can also be found here. At Burton you hit the last (or first!) of the narrow locks. The canal is surprisingly rural here. We moored inside Jannel Cruisers but there is a £3 charge for this and you are locked in until 9am. We wish we'd moored outside! 

Plenty of pubs in Burton. Our favourite was the Coopers, an amazing place serving straight from the cask: Bass, Pedigree plus Hardy & Hansons Best Bitter and Classic. Very friendly. The Devonshire a few yards away sells Burton Bridge ales in good form. Shardlow is a great place to moor. The Malt Shovel is my favoured canal-side pub serving Marstons Pedigree but the best pub by far is a fifteen minute walk up to Cavendish Bridge where the GBG listed Old Crown sells 6 real ales, most from independent breweries. The food sounded great but is served lunchtimes only. Terrific place. 

Highly recommended is Tandoori Nights restaurant which is five minutes walk up the main road (North). They will even deliver your food (01332 853383). Now you know why I said Shardlow is a great place to moor. Sawley Bridge has a massive marina and chandlers but if you decide to moor on the offside it is quite a walk round. So why not head into Sawley itself and shortly after Harrington Bridge you will come to the Harrington Arms? A comfortable (dogs not welcome, though they let us take ours into the garden on a lead) pub serving excellent condition Hardy & Hansons Bitter, Classic and seasonal ale. Sawley locks (you can use either) are electrically operated.


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