The Llangollen Canal

At Marbury the walk to the village was very pleasant, the Swan was very friendly and the Greenalls Original was good. If the village green wasn't pleasant enough we were in for a treat when we visited the church. Although the building is pleasing to the eye, the real surprise for us came as we walked around the rear of the church. A marvellous vista is formed by Big Mere and we sat here for a while just enjoying the view. The Withymoor Lock pub naturally located alongside the lock of the same name serves probably the best beer on the Llangollen. Four independent brewery guest ales are served alongside Theakston BB. Locally brewed Hanby ales are often featured. Food is served in this tidy, canalside inn. Expect a wait going up or down Grindley Brook staircase locks. The shop adjacent sells a magnificent range of meats, cheeses and other delicacies which easily makes up for the delay. The water points can be found a short distance above the locks.

Whitchurch is some distance from the canal but a useful Spa shop can be found fifteen minutes walk from the town arm. The Waggoners at Platt Lane near Wixall Moss is a basic boozer, serving Bass, Worthington and a guest in the summer. This is often Robinsons Best. It lies a short distance from the waterway but there is plenty of good mooring. Just past Platt Lane there is a useful "garden" shop. The pub and shop are the only distractions along this wild part of the canal. The meres or lakes along the next stretch are particularly delightful but we have not found much at Ellesmere to make us want to bother stopping again.

The Narrowboat at Welsh Frankton is a plain pub with well kept beer. It has received a pub of the year award from the local branch of CAMRA. Food is reasonably priced and there are three rotating guest ales. The busy boat yard here means that the only mooring is east of the bridge and this rather overgrown. Just a little further up the canal is the Jack Mytton which has excellent mooring and four interesting ales. Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Salopian Gold (sold as a house beer) are semi-permanent and there are two guest ales usually from independent breweries. Highly recommended.

Chirk Bank is a fine place to moor for the night and we did just that. The Bridge serves an excellent pint of Banks's Mild and Bitter though the Morrells Varsity was of more interest to me. Over the viaduct, you can get water, gas and use the sani station at the modern and efficient Chirk Marina. There is also a small chandlery here. Of course the main point of interest on this waterway is the spectacular aqueduct at Pontcysyllte. The trip across is breathtaking but you'll find it difficult to concentrate on steering a straight course as you consider the sheer drop to one side! The Sun Trevor is a welcoming and comfortable pub with good ale - Directors, John Smiths and a guest ale. This is a good spot to spend the night in preparation for an early morning trip to Llangollen. The views on this part of the canal (actually navigable feeder better describes the waterway) are magnificent. Probably the best of any waterway in Britain.

Mooring in Llangollen is not easy due to limited space, narrow passing places and very shallow water especially as you approach the winding hole by the horse drawn boats. Many people tell you not to bother and moor up in Trevor, but we always ignore their advice, head off early and manage to get a spot. The Robinsons BB in the Bridge End is not bad but the Burton Ale at the Wynstay Arms in Bridge Street is superb. The pub is a comfortable old place with an excellent bar. The Sun is two minutes walk from here on Regent Street and serves the best range of real ales in the town. Five ales all from independent breweries are on sale along with a good range of bottled Belgian beers. The pubs is a cross between a cafe bar and a thriving local. Highly recommended. It is well worth trying the excellent sausages from the butcher opposite Bridge Street. A trip to Carrog on the beautiful railway is a must. You can also travel by rail to the very start of the canal/feeder but the couple of miles walk would be a shame to miss. Horsehoe falls are actually man-made and not as spectacular as they sound. But all the same, this is a pleasant place to relax as the canal and river go their separate ways.