Wigan locks are in a not unattractive setting and although the handcuff keys are a
pain, the variety of lock gear and gate opening methods makes for an interesting few hours.
We came across a number of kids around here, but by and large we found them an amenable
bunch. The accents are particularly distinct. No real ale at the Kirkless
Arms (near the top
lock) despite handpumps on view though I have been informed that it is
sometimes available. We should have tried the Colliers Arms (Burtonwood)
instead. It is close by and has been a CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular. We travelled on through a pretty landscape to Red Rock.
The Crawford Arms is a basic local's pub serving Greenalls Bitter. The waterway now
becomes more rural.
A very comprehensive chandlers with good value diesel at the White
Bear boatyard and marina. Johnson's locks typify the increasingly rural setting and
hooray! no padlocks. We had a good value meal and nice pint of Courage Directors at the
Top Lock. Riley Green is a good place to moor. The Boatyard is a modern pub serving excellent
food and splendid ale: Thwaites Bitter, Chairman's ale and seasonal ale. We had been
advised not to moor at Blackburn but the journey was pleasant and winding rather like the
Oxford. A useful Asda is close to bridge 101.
The serious beer drinker must stop at bridge
114b for a trip to the Albion, which serves the Porter brewery range of ales (Porter Mild,
Bitter, Rossendale plus another two). A friendly canalside inn. There are some fine views
of the Calder valley as you go east. Good moorings at Hapton, the only blemish being the
chemical works which is slightly smelly and noisy. The Bridge is an excellent traditional
local famed for its Thwaites mild, which is the landlords tipple. Delicious stuff and the
Bitter is excellent as well.
The journey through Burnley is fascinating especially as you
travel high on the embankment looking down on the hustle and bustle of the town below. The
next locks are thankfully padlock free. There is a useful water point and sani station at
the top. Foulridge tunnel is controlled by lights with a ten-minute passage every hour. The
county border seems to be in dispute with some locals here so you may or may not be
travelling into Yorkshire from Lancashire. The Anchor at Saltisford is a good place to
moor. The pub, which was open in the afternoon, is a friendly old place serving good food
and beer: (Theakston Mild, Best Bitter; John Smiths, Ruddles Best Bitter and Courage
Directors.
The scenery gets even better now and the similarity to the winding Oxford
continues. Nice canalside gift shop at Bridge 152. The descent to Leeds begins. East
Marton is a pleasant place to stroll around. We had an excellent lunch at the
Cross Keys
which served good Black Sheep Bitter and Timothy Taylors Landlord. We moored for the night at Gargrave not far from the water point and sani station. A
pleasant village with some useful shops. Ignoring the Brewer's Fayre place we tried the
Old Swan which served Black Sheep but weren't that impressed.
A much better atmosphere in
the bustling Mason's Arms across the river. The food looked good and the beer (Tetley, Old
Speckled Hen, and Whitbread Original) was in fine form. On to Skipton through a wonderful
daleside setting. The locks are easy enough though the padlocks have returned and there
are a few swing bridges. The air at Skipton seems filled with fish and chips, which is
most unsettling if you are hungry. The source is the Egon Ronay award winning fish bar
"Bizzie Lizzies" on Bridge 178. Skipton is popular with boaters and visitors. We managed to moor near the swing
bridge. Note the sani station is by Bridge 179 on the non-towpath side. Luckily we caught
the street market (Saturday).
Plenty of good pubs in Skipton with two musts: The Woolly Sheep, a comfortable and smart inn serving good food and the full range of Timothy Taylors
(Mild, Best, Golden Best, Landlord). The Narrowboat just round the corner is a small and
tidy pub that looks after its customers. Spot the letter from BW (and the reply!) on the
wall. Eight real ales all from independent breweries and in top condition. Heaven! At
Leeds there is good mooring at Granary Wharf. Stock up on some rare bottled ales (British
and Belgian) at Beer Paradise which can be found here.