For much of its length we didn't find this waterway particularly pretty
it has to be said. That was until we sought out the southern section that is north of Preston
Brook tunnel. This section is very attractive with fine open stretches of
countryside and appealing villages and hamlets. Generally the whole canal is
wide, deep and lock free so progress is swift. Midland Chandlers have a useful
depot near Preston Brook. The next section is excellent. At Grappenhall, a stop
is recommended. A walk along a cobbled road takes you to the church. Next to
which there are two pubs. The Rams Head is a fine pub serving good
Greenalls Bitter plus two national beer. The Parr Arms is highly
recommended. A proper multi roomed and tidy inn serving excellent guest ale plus
Pedigree and Greenalls Bitter. The section north of here is excellent with
plenty to see and glorious countryside.
Lymm is the finest village on the
Bridgewater, with a good selection of shops a small market and amenities including stocks for
troublesome youngsters! Plenty of beer for the connoisseur. Try the Bulls
Head for the Hydes Mild, Bitter and Jekylls and the wonderful Spread
Eagle serving Lees GB Mild, Bitter and seasonal guest in a proper
multi-roomed pub. The snug is our favourite. There is a useful sani-station with
books for sale at bridge 24. Water is available before bridge 26A. The next
section is wonderful open countryside until the outskirts of Manchester at
reached. Traditional beer enthusiasts shouldn't be tempted by the Thwaites on
offer at the Bay Malton. It is all keg. Much more sensible to head for Dunham
Town and the Axe and Cleaver a really smart country inn serving excellent
food, Theakstons BB, Directors and a guest beer.
The canal from Manchester to Leigh are not as attractive
however. The ship canal and structures such as Barton Swing bridge and Ship canal do make it
an interesting waterway though. The depth and lack of locks means that you can make good
progress. Worsley is the favoured mooring place after Manchester and it really is a pretty
place especially around the old mine workings. There is a small shop and a delicatessen
but that was closed on our visit. Of the two pubs, only the Bridgewater serves trad beer
which is Boddingtons (yawn). There is an excellent Chinese takeaway, the Tung Fong close
to Bridge 52.
As you make your way north the waterway becomes more rural. Leigh has a large Co-op
which can be reached through a gap in the fence on the non-towpath side. Canalside shops
are virtually unknown in these waters. As you pass through Leigh you re-enter BW waters
and although this is now the Leigh branch of the Leeds and Liverpool canal, I didn't feel
properly on the L&L until Wigan. The section approaching Wigan is most picturesque.
Have your handcuff key ready for the locks.