The
BCN is an underused network of interesting waterways. A lot of money has been
spent upgrading the waterways and surroundings and the system is well worth a
visit.
In Birmingham itself we
used to moor just on the Worc & B'ham canal near the newly developed Post
House but we now tend to use the moorings outside the Fiddle and Bone.. You get plenty
of on-lookers in the city. Plenty of pubs with good ale. The Tap and Spile is on the
canal and has a good range of ales usually including Greene King IPA, Adnams and
London Pride. The Prince of Wales has been
refurbished but was always the pub with the best atmosphere (Ansells, Burton Ale). The
Flapper and Firkin is a noisy pub with a young clientele that sadly no
longer brews its own beer. If you
are going down Farmer's Bridge to Digbeth you will come across some really surprisingly
pleasant spots although Digbeth basin itself is pretty grim.
A detour off the mainline to the old line at Smethwick (note the single gated locks
that can be found on the Oxford canal) makes for a much more interesting journey
especially once you get past the Spon End junction. On our last trip we found diesel at
65p a gallon! The old (Wolverhampton level) canal is much more interesting and pleasant
than the main line especially in the Netherton/Dudley area. After the damp Netherton
Tunnel on the Dudley No 2, we always moor for the night just above the unique
Dry Dock.
The Ushers ales are usually good and so is the food. The place is famous for its bar
- try
it and see. The journey to Parkhead is quite tranquil.
Plenty of pubs round the Delph but we've never moored there. Most boats seem to moor at Merry Hill. Another great mooring spot is the Black County museum. If you moor on the left hand side you'll be charged entrance to the museum. We arrived late and managed to haggle for half price entry. The Bottle and Glass pub closes at 4-5pm but serves good Holdens Mild and Bitter and splendid cheese cobs. Mooring on the right hand side near the tunnel mouth means you can get into the real world via a BW padlocked gate. You can then walk to the Pie Factory in Tipton (Ushers) or the Park Gate in Woodsetton, the home of Holdens Black Country ales.
If you are heading for Wolverhampton, you'll find the waterway surprisingly full
of vegetation and wildlife. Wolverhampton locks are a delight to operate and the setting
is most attractive. There is good mooring, complete with grassed area at the
top of the locks with a water point and sani station nearby. The only down side
is the noisy club here.
Onto the Stourbridge. A useful but small shop at the "Dock" near the bottom
of the Stourbridge 16. This is a pretty part of the canal which is surprising considering
you are in the heart of the industrial Black Country. We found the channel quite shallow
in parts.
There is no doubt that if
you like rural waterways, the most attractive part of the BCN has to be the
northern section. A week on the northern stretches of the BCN has been one of
our favourite trips of all time. The Wyrley and Essington canal starts in
Wolverhampton and quickly turns attractively urban rather than industrial.
Expect lots of friendly comments from the locals. One chap walking his dog, saw
our dog and threw her a bonio! Even the anglers will greet you! The water is
crystal clear virtually all the length of the waterway. We had only one weed
hatch visit on our outward leg but coming back the weed (due to crystal clear
water) along with the odd plastic bag did result in five visits to the prop.
There is a boat club with moorings, water and sani station and Sneyd. This part
of the waterway is attractive even though the motorway is adjacent. Past
Birchills junction the canal becomes semi-urban again. There are large fields
with tethered ponies. All of a sudden you are then in a total rural landscape.
The views are stunning and you are only four hours from Wolverhampton! The
Cannock extension canal is worth an hour and a half detour. The woods and fields
make for a serene journey. At the end of the arm, there is a boatyard (water
only) where you can turn. At Pelsall Common, one of the best pubs on the BCN can
be found. The Royal Oak is an attractive and tidy community pub that
serves excellent food (all day Sunday!) and superb ale - Ansells Mild, Bitter,
Burton Ale and Marston Pedigree. The common is an attractive place to moor but
not that depth is best right under the pub. A short trip from here takes you to
the less attractive Brownhills though there is a market here (with mooring) on
Tuesdays. At Catshill junction, we turned left for the Anglesey branch. Past the
junction the waterway improves in character.
You are soon at the basin which is totally rural. The whole stretch of this canal is very similar to the Caldon canal. There is good mooring along here but the prime spot is right at the end, where the feeder from Chasewater enters the canal. There is space for three narrowboats here. A sort walk up the embankment takes you to Chasewater, where you can watch water skiers and immerse yourself in the beauty of this lovely place. There is an unremarkable Banks's pub, ten minutes walk from here towards the A5 and turn left but the best option is to bring your own ale.
The Daw End branch turns into the Rushall canal and once you are past Catshill Junction you can enjoy an eclectic mix of scenery. First there is a long stretch of grassland and tree surrounded waterway. This soon turns into an attractive combination of industrial and urban landscape as you pass high above a huge quarry. Suddenly the winding waterway turns totally rural. Enjoy an excellent pint of Banks's Mild, Bitter and Pedigree at the totally unspoilt Manor Arms at Daw End which hag good moorings. This multi-roomed pub with a delightful garden has no bar. Drinks are served from the snug. The food is excellent in terms of quality and value for money. Another one of the great BCN pubs. South of here, the rural scenery gets even better and then you are at Longwood boat club with good mooring, water and sani-station. The eight locks start here. The canal is straight for a few miles. As you approach Rushall junction the view becomes more urban but the canal holds onto its charm.
The Tame Valley canal between Rushall junction and Ocker Hill is long and straight but still has quite a lot going for it. It certainly isn't the "dismal" waterway described by Nicolsons, though in fairness this description does accurately describe the canal below Perry Barr locks. Here though, there is plenty of greenery. Wave to the traffic as you pass high over the M5 and then enter a valley. We passed a few large items of litter but nothing that would get in the prop.
The local BW headquarters is at Ocker Hill and there are first class facilities
here including a four star sani station replete with shower!
We turned right onto the Walsall canal and we did find a lot of litter on this waterway but not as much as we had expected. We can thank the BCN clean-ups for this!. Between Ocker Hill and Walsall town arm we had to visit the weed hatch twice. This waterway doesn't have a great reputation and it wasn't the prettiest on our trip but we didn't find it that bad. It certainly had a number of pleasant characteristics and we found the locals friendly. The trip from the Manor Arms at Daw End to Walsall town arm took us six hours with just three weed hatch visits. There is good pontoon mooring at the end of the town arm though sadly we were alone! However all was not lost as the Wharf cafe bar is adjacent and you can enjoy Highgate Saddlers bitter (brewed in Walsall) and a guest ale or two. Food is over-priced though. The town shops are adjacent but sadly the litter strewn streets spoil the effect. There is an excellent Indian takeaway and restaurant the Jeevan Jyot at 66 Bradford Street ten minutes walk from the Wharf towards the monument.
The locks are in excellent condition, though we did find the second pound had
been drained. The scenery is attractive and improves all the time particularly
at Birchills museum at the top lock. The trip from Walsall town arm to the top
lock at Wolverhampton is an easy day but for us the journey was made more
difficult by the pernicious weed!
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